"Al Dente"

“Al dente” in Italian means “to the tooth”, but colloquially means “perfect in the mouth.” In Italy this phrase moves beyond the point of identifying the perfect state of cooked pasta, to being an actual state of being for the pasta. Every pasta I tried in Italy was so absolutely perfect that it left me with a feeling of pure satisfaction, eyes closed, taste buds firing on all cylinders and that inexplicable yet immediately identifiable texture as you bite down. As my sister said, “It’s in their blood, it’s an internal clock, and if you don’t know how to cook pasta, you aren’t Italian.”

The remarkable pastas shown are from Canova Tadolini Restaurant and Gallery, a must visit if you are in Rome.

The Aperitivo

Happy Hour in Italy is a little different. Called an Aperitivo, it is served between roughly 5pm and 7:30pm usually by the local espresso bar or panini shop. The premise is simple but equally mind-blowing. You order a drink and snacks are included. Sometimes snacks are brought to your table in the form of a bowl of olives, bite-size crustless ham sandwiches, and potato chips (everything delicious, these aren't bar nuts). Other times a full buffet of various pasta salads, sandwiches, and/or cured meats and cheeses is offered, help yourself (seriously).  So you order a Campari Spritz at about 2-3€ above usual price and the snacks are all yours.  It's simply brilliant.

The Espresso "Bar"

The espresso bar in Italy is a wonderful thing. Perfect in the morning for a quick cafe (espresso) and a tramazzino (a little panini with ham, cheese, and a whole other assortment of fillings). Equally well positioned in the afternoon.  Everybody has their bar.  One on the way to work, one during siesta, one on the way home for an aperitivo. And needless to say, the espresso is phenomenal, deliciously roasted, perfectly pulled, and quite simply lacking in pretension. We've got a long way to go in the States.

This little cup of magic is called a Caffé Granita found at La Casa Del Caffé Tazza D'oro in Rome. Shaved espresso, sugar, and Chantilly whipped cream served in a little to-go cup to cool you down, speed you up, and warm your heart. I ❤ Roma.  

Segue to Rome

I had the great pleasure and fortune to spend the past 6 days travelling in Italy with my sister. She is my best friend, a total riot, and one hell-of-a travel companion. We haven’t stopped laughing since the airport in Sardegna (when we were standing in an enormous line and the lady behind me insisted on standing so close to me that she was literally touching my elbow and then while the line was not moving, rolled her suitcase into my leg, settle down lady).

Jay spent nearly 9 months in Rome while studying abroad and after 12 days in Sardegna was gaining confidence and fluency in her Italian.  She was our tour guide, translator, and local.  On our first day we wandered the streets of her old haunt (Piazza Navona, the Pantheon, and surrounding areas). It was quite a nice thing not to have to look at a map (although that night I would have a nightmare that I was trapped on cobbled street and wasn’t able to get out cause I didn’t know where I was going!).

We stayed at the beautiful Hotel Mozart, perfectly located a half block off of the Via del Corso, the Grand Promenade that greeted those  (the main promenade in that part of Rome) and next to the Conservatory of Music where we were quite literally serenaded by sonatas (the pic above is from the rooftop). We had the best suite on the fifth floor with a gorgeous balcony overlooking the rooftops of Rome courtesy of our mom, who made sure to reserve it for us.  Please be sure to check out her review of the hotel HERE.

We spent the next few days wandering the beautifully antiquated streets of Rome, taking in the sites and searching for lost cafés to have a Spritz Campari and play cards in. Having taken a class on the architectural history of Rome, Jay was an amazing tour guide. She took us on a visual tour through the ages from Ancient Empire to the Papal Baroque Period to Modern times. She pointed out how some streets were widened, others cut-off, and my personal favorite, how the cornerstones of buildings could be used as markers for identifying the time period in which it was built (cool!).  It was an amazing way to see the city, although after two days and 14 miles of walking, we were toasted.  But that all changed when we discovered...

Photo cred: Jay, with the stick

The Segway! We passed a newsstand that offered Segways for rent at 15€ an hour. No guide and no helmets, they just let us loose (crazy right??). So we rented a couple, put on our “I ❤ Roma” shirts, and went in search of the best place to take the perfect selfie (Oh did I forget to mention that we bought a “selfie stick”? Terrible selfie pick post to follow). Now, I know what you are saying, Segways are as dorky as it gets, like the fanny pack for the tech world, but once you stand on one, all that nonsense evaporates and you realize that this thing is the most amazing invention of our time.  They are AWESOME.  Perfectly balanced and perfect for the rolling cobble stone streets of Rome.  We took our Segways to the Borghese Gardens for a wonderful “jaunt” around the park and loved every minute. 

We left Rome on the 29th and decided to forgo Sienna and take the train straight to Modena. It saved us a lot of headache trying to maneuver a new city for just one day (plans sometimes look better on paper). I have to stress that fluidity and openness in travel is paramount. Traveling is always difficult, but also one of the most exhilarating and exciting experiences one can have. Yet, all of that fun can evaporate instantly depending on your travel partner. A positive attitude and openness to changes in the "plan" are essential to keeping the peace. Those that have travelled with a less than flexible partner know what I’m talking about.  Everyone travels differently and it’s important to pair your travel buddy with your style of travel.  Jay was the perfect travel companion and we had an absolute blast (but then again we have been traveling together since we were 9 and 5 years old). We will have the memories (and the jokes “insert bird noises”) from this trip for the rest of our lives.  I love you Beebs and can’t wait for the next adventure!!!

Selfies, Shirts, and Segways

"Oh look, Piazza Navona!"

So we bought a "selfie stick", but didn't really (know how to) use it properly.

Aww the Trevi Fountain was closed.  But we really tried to learn how to take that selfie.

Look the Colosseum isn't closed! How pretty! (At least we're in the pic).

Oh but then we got Segways! And we needed equally ridiculous matching Tees.

So cool

Trés chic!

And the ultimate Segway Selfie at the Vatican, 5 points.