Here is a video of England performing "I will always love you" by Whitney Houston
The 2015 Festival d'Art Pyrotechnique in Cannes was an absolutely amazing experience. Countries from around the world compete each week for best firework exposition. Set to music and the incredible backdrop of the Cote d'Azur, this is a must see event if you are in the area.
Juan les Pins has become our go-to beach in the Cote d’Azure. The plage (beach, I'm so French) is located in the next cove south of Antibes between Nice and Cannes. It is a beautiful white sand beach (unlike Nice, which is surprisingly rocky) with clear blue water (nothing like Sardinia #spoiled), overlooking some pretty daunting yachts on the horizon. The beach still consists of row upon row of beach chairs offered for a premium price by various Beach Clubs, yet doesn’t have the posh overwhelming vibe of Cannes. The water is warm and inviting and if you happen to get a chair in the front row (it’s taken us 5 years of palm greasing Dadu at Le Pirate Beach Club to get a set of four), provides endless fun watching the social elite “prance” along the beach. The surrounding town offers quaint and high end shopping alike (this is where my mom gets her coveted iPhone covers). The Cote d'Azur is a special place and if you visit, I highly recommend visiting this beach town.
Parking in this congested beach town is tricky, so we frequently use the valet at the Hôtel Belles Rives. Beyond the convenience of hassle free parking, walking through the extravagant 5-Star hotel lobby, one is treated to one of the most spectacular views of the Cote d’Azur (honestly worth the minor valet fee just to walk through the hotel). Rumored to be where Fitzgerald stayed when writing The Great Gatsby. While I haven't had the opportunity to stay at this hotel (yet), I did have the great fortune of dining there. We were treated to exceptional service and food at La Passagère restaurant located on the terrace overlooking all of Juan-Les-Pains (seriously breathtaking). The Maitre D’, Jullianne took fantastic care of us, catering to my sister’s extreme nut allergy by personally delivering each of her dishes and notifying her of which dishes on the table she could or could not try. The staff was attentive and professional. For dinner, I had seabass rolled in grape leaves, sprinkled with almonds and a delicate yuzu drizzle (superb), while Asaad and his sister ordered the Gamba special (deep water prawns that were as big as your head!). Finally after pre-dessert, dessert, and post-dessert (my sister was brought a special champagne shaved ice that was ridiculously good) we were smiling ear to ear, a fantastic experience and highly recommended if you have a special someone you want to impress.
Dov’é la Cuore? Dov’é Massimo? Where is the heart? Where is Mossimo? These were the questions we found ourselves asking as we made our way through dishes and wine pairings that were uninspiring, unintelligible, and eventually inedible. But I'm getting ahead of myself. Let me start at the beginning, the entrance, a locked door at the front of Osteria Francescana.
Approaching the unassuming door of Osteria Francescana, I was actually nervous. My heart beat a little bit faster in anticipation and I realized that I had never actually been anxious for a dinner before. Having made our reservation nine months prior, my anticipation was understandable. Having read numerous articles on Chef Massimo Bottura and watching his featured episode on Netflix, “Chef's Table”, my expectation for dining at the Michelin 3-Star and World Number 2 Restaurant (according to HERE) was unquestionably high. It would be this expectation and Massimo's lack of presence that would lead to one of the most disappointing dinners of my life.
After ringing the doorbell, the door opened on a simple and modern foyer, grey being the dominant color. Five gentleman stood at attention in immaculate suits, one broke stance and said, “How may we help you.” I replied, “Well, we have a reservation for dinner tonight.”
We were taken to our table, one of only twelve in the restaurant, in a room offset from the main dining room. There was a party of six seated at the only other table in the room (they would never become our friends). The table was exquisite, white table cloth, brushed porcelain olive oil bowl, gold leafed charger (I think that’s what you call a plate that you don’t eat off of that is there just to look pretty?). Jay and I looked at each other and laughed an uneasy “here we go” type of laugh.
After a few minutes a gentleman handed us menus, took our water order and left promptly without saying a word. A few minutes later, the Maitre d’ or Manager or Head Server, we’ll call him Pepe (I think that’s actually his name) approached the table and said, “Have you made your decisions?” Not one to miss an opportunity to talk to my fellow professional, I tried to engage Pepe in conversation, telling him that this was our first time here, how excited we were and how we had come all the way from Los Angeles, via a stop off in Sardinia, to which Pepe responded, “Very good, have you made your decisions?” (Wow, ok, not getting much out of this guy.) I then told him how we were looking for some guidance on the menu as dish names ranged from Eel Swimming up the Po River to Fish Soup. We told him that we were thinking about the “Traditional Tasting Menu” but were also interested in maybe trying some items from the “Experimental Menu”. Pepe replied, “Very good, I will prepare you a 12-course combination menu,” and removed our menus from the table. My sister tried with one last gasp to engage Pepe by saying, “My brother is a Sommelier.” Pepe replied, “Very good, I will send over Andrea, our Sommelier.” (Phew, that was intense.)
We sat for another few minutes talking about the thickness of the air in our dining room, but still very much looking forward to the meal ahead. Andrea, the Sommelier approached the table and said, “You have questions about the wine?” I told him that I was a Sommelier and that I was excited for the meal ahead and was very interested in pairing the dishes with wine. He replied, “We will take care of the wine pairing for your, thank you,” and he was off (good chat).
After another few minutes, our first dish arrived, a tempura Fish & Chips wafer with a dollop of Carpionne cream (which Jay hysterically dropped in her lap before making it into her mouth), a Rabbit Macaroon (which was smaller than my pinky fingernail, but actually had the most flavor of almost anything we tasted all night), and Baccala and Tomato (which my sister lovingly called a 50€ Hot Pocket). All this was paired with a delicious white wine from Sicily, wetting our palate for more.
The third dish was titled Mediterranean and consisted of cucumber ravioli (the ravioli shell was a thinly sliced cucumber) stuffed with eel. The ravioli sat in this beautifully green shallow mint broth sprinkled with flowers, fresh mint and gentle dollops of tzatziki. We had to inquire more about this dish. Our “server” told us that it was fashioned after the movie “Mediterranean” in which the Italians occupied Greece during WWII and were forced to fuse their cuisines. My sister replied, “Oh, like 'Captain Corelli's Mandolin', have you read that book?” “No, I only have seen the movie,” the server replied. “Oh, well it’s like that then,” said my sister. “No, it’s not,” replied the server, “It’s like the movie I just told you about. Thank you, enjoy.” (Blow Back. We died laughing a little bit).
"Mediterranean" not "Captain Corelli's Mandolin"
As you can imagine, it continued to go downhill from here. Dishes arrived and we would try to find out what the ingredients were or how the dish was prepared or why the wine was paired in such a way, only to be met with answers that confused us and led us to more questions. One such instance was a dish titled Abstract Asparagus, Prosciutto, and Peas Tagliolini. The server described the dish as a traditional springtime pasta made in Modena, deconstructed into a soup (for those uninitiated to this term, “deconstructing” a dish is like the burrito bowl at Chipotle, all the ingredients of the burrito, just opened up and displayed in a different form. Please forgive me for using Chipotle in this example.). It was in fact a soup that was supposed to taste like pasta. I asked how the chef made a soup from pasta? He replied, “It’s like a miso.” I said, “Well what does that mean, does he just soak the noodles and use that broth.” He said, “No, do you know how they make a miso? It’s similar. Thank you, enjoy.” Further complicating this dish, was an obscure white wine from Piedmont, Italy that had strong notes of musty melon and lychee, totally uncomplimentary of our liquid pasta miso soup. This was going from bad to worse.
Dishes continued to arrive, servers continued to not explain what they were, my sister and I continued to look at each other wondering if our taste buds were off. Our overarching feeling of each dish was that they were boring and uninspiring. Even the signature dishes felt soulless and underdeveloped. The Five Ages of Parmigiano Reggiano was delicate in its presentation but rich and overwhelming (also incorrectly paired with a very acidic citrus wine) and The Crunchy Part of the Lasagna, which is often spoken of as the highlight dish of Massimo's career, did taste like delicious lasagna, but left us asking, why not just make the best darn lasagna we’ve ever had? It was deconstructed, leaving you with a bite of bolognaise and bechamel with a crunchy cracker (reminiscent of those asian-style crispy wafers), and no noodles. This was served with a juniper-infused beer from Bologna, not wine. We were not served one of Massamio's favorites, Tortellini Marching into Broth (sad).
"The Crunchy Part of the Lasagna"
The proverbial “Coup de Grace” came at what was supposed to be the crescendo of the meal, a dish titled Spin-painted Veal, Not Flame Grilled. An absolutely gorgeous dish was laid in front of us with multi-colored purees splashed across the plate and a cut of meat prominently displayed in the center. The server introduced the dish by saying, “The meat here is not veal, it is beef meant to taste like veal. Further, it is not grilled, it is meant to look like it is grilled because the best part of grilled meat is the appearance of the char.” Wait, excuse me, did you just tell somebody who works in an open-fire steakhouse that the purpose and best part of grilling meat is the look? I was flabbergasted. Apparently the beef-not-veal was boiled in a vacuum pack and then crusted with herbs to “look” like it was grilled. Unfortunately this dish did not taste like grilled veal, it was dry and tough, lacking in flavor and dripping with pretension.
The look of the grill on "Spin-painted Veal, Not Flame Grilled"
It was at this point in the meal, that we had some questions for a Manager. We asked our server if Pepe was available. He told us that Pepe had left for the evening. We then asked if Massimo was in the kitchen. He told us that Massimo was not there, sometimes he stops in, but he has other projects he is working on. Aha.
Herein lies the most fundamental question of the meal, where is Massimo? I understand that a Chef needs to be creative and innovative, to challenge themselves to create new and exciting dishes within the realm of their specialty. I believe this is the reason Massimo created Osteria Francescana in the first place, to “deconstruct” the flavors of Modena and the Italian Kitchen and present them in new and exciting ways and he did so with much heartache and challenge, but he succeeded. Now it would appear as though he has left Osteria Francescana in the hands of his staff and is pursuing other ventures and the restaurant is suffering. By nature, Massimo is dynamic, exciting and charismatic, these were the qualities I was looking for in his dishes. However in the hands of his team, who are following his recipes, the dishes come off lethargic, dull and totally lacking in heart and soul. Further, for such a dynamic personality, the “feel” of the restaurant was stale and unwelcoming. Who would want to dine in such an atmosphere? Not to mention the service, unengaging, unfriendly, and unknowledgeable.
This experience also conjured up an interesting dilemma in expectation. My expectations were very high and rightfully so, considering that I was going to have a meal by Massimo Bottura at the Osteria Francescana, a Michelin 3-Star and World Number 2 Restaurant. However, as we left the restaurant I felt dejected, lied to, and disappointed. As a restaurateur and hospitality professional, I greatly look forward to exploring the world of food and wine. I have my issues with Yelp and TripAdvisor (to be discussed in later posts), but in the restaurant industry, the Michelin guide is held in high esteem as the ultimate test. One star is nearly impossible and is given only to fantastic restaurants. Two stars is exceptional, but three stars!?!? That’s one of the highest achievements possible. I have a serious question for the Michelin people and have drafted a review similar to this one to send to them. It begs the question, do you believe the hype? In this case, I was duped. I believed in the system and I believed in Massimo and I was whole heartedly let down by the experience.
The meal ended much as you would expect, more unexplained dishes displayed in unique ways that didn’t taste very good and were poorly paired with wine. Around dish ten or eleven, we were served a Foie Gras Ice Cream Bar that was infused with balsamic glaze. First of all Foie Gras is one of the softest, most delicate and delicious tastes. Why would you add a strong and powerful balsamic glaze to it? Second of all, it was paired with a Barolo Chinata, an extremely powerful red wine with notes of rhubarb and dried tree bark. This was a disaster and totally inedible, and I looked over at my sister who said in ernest, “I just threw up a little in my mouth.”
By the time the bill came, we were so dejected that it only seemed to add insult to injury that the total was 700€ (coffee and water were NOT included in the 660 prix-fix food and wine price). If I had been a different type of person, I probably would have walked out mid-mess, but that’s not who I am. I kept hoping it would get better and wondered if I could I learn from the experience. And finally, as we approached the locked door to exit, our server thanked us and handed us our parting gift… a bag of breadcrumbs. One thing's for sure, I won’t be leaving a trail of those to follow back to Osteria Francescana.
Never ones to let a bad meal get us down, we kept smiling.
Modena is an absolutely charming little town, perfectly situated at the crossroads of Italy. To the south is Tuscany, providing olive oil, delectable cured meats, and Chianti Classico. To the north is Piedmont and the Veneto, offering Prosecco and some of the most complex and delicious wines ever created (Barolo and Barbaresco) and truffles. And for it’s own part, Modena is where the greatest balsamic vinegar is made, as well as prosciutto, and of course, Parmigiano Reggiano. Therefore, Modena is an amazing amalgamation of food and wine, drawing from all the best parts of Italy, this is the place to visit if you are a foodie.
Modena was also a bit of a mystery to me. Sitting at a little table at a coffee “bar” in the main intersection, you notice a constant stream of bicycles (old funky bicycles) rolling by on the cobblestone streets. While I was sure this was a tourist destination, the bicycles led me to believe that this is also a vibrant local community (I also noticed numerous people stop and greet each other at the coffee shop I was sitting at). For the tourists (all Italians), stores like Chanel, Burberry, and H&M have opened up storefronts and people endlessly moved in and out of stores along a sidewalk beautifully displayed with vaulted archways. Modena felt like a Hollywood set except that it was real. Modena, it turns out, is also the headquarters of Ferrari, Maserati, and Lamborghini, perfect for the supercar aficionado. We realized that this town has much more happening than we previously thought. I highly recommend a visit if you are in Italy.
I had the great pleasure and fortune to spend the past 6 days travelling in Italy with my sister. She is my best friend, a total riot, and one hell-of-a travel companion. We haven’t stopped laughing since the airport in Sardegna (when we were standing in an enormous line and the lady behind me insisted on standing so close to me that she was literally touching my elbow and then while the line was not moving, rolled her suitcase into my leg, settle down lady).
Jay spent nearly 9 months in Rome while studying abroad and after 12 days in Sardegna was gaining confidence and fluency in her Italian. She was our tour guide, translator, and local. On our first day we wandered the streets of her old haunt (Piazza Navona, the Pantheon, and surrounding areas). It was quite a nice thing not to have to look at a map (although that night I would have a nightmare that I was trapped on cobbled street and wasn’t able to get out cause I didn’t know where I was going!).
We stayed at the beautiful Hotel Mozart, perfectly located a half block off of the Via del Corso, the Grand Promenade that greeted those (the main promenade in that part of Rome) and next to the Conservatory of Music where we were quite literally serenaded by sonatas (the pic above is from the rooftop). We had the best suite on the fifth floor with a gorgeous balcony overlooking the rooftops of Rome courtesy of our mom, who made sure to reserve it for us. Please be sure to check out her review of the hotel HERE.
We spent the next few days wandering the beautifully antiquated streets of Rome, taking in the sites and searching for lost cafés to have a Spritz Campari and play cards in. Having taken a class on the architectural history of Rome, Jay was an amazing tour guide. She took us on a visual tour through the ages from Ancient Empire to the Papal Baroque Period to Modern times. She pointed out how some streets were widened, others cut-off, and my personal favorite, how the cornerstones of buildings could be used as markers for identifying the time period in which it was built (cool!). It was an amazing way to see the city, although after two days and 14 miles of walking, we were toasted. But that all changed when we discovered...
Photo cred: Jay, with the stick
The Segway! We passed a newsstand that offered Segways for rent at 15€ an hour. No guide and no helmets, they just let us loose (crazy right??). So we rented a couple, put on our “I ❤ Roma” shirts, and went in search of the best place to take the perfect selfie (Oh did I forget to mention that we bought a “selfie stick”? Terrible selfie pick post to follow). Now, I know what you are saying, Segways are as dorky as it gets, like the fanny pack for the tech world, but once you stand on one, all that nonsense evaporates and you realize that this thing is the most amazing invention of our time. They are AWESOME. Perfectly balanced and perfect for the rolling cobble stone streets of Rome. We took our Segways to the Borghese Gardens for a wonderful “jaunt” around the park and loved every minute.
We left Rome on the 29th and decided to forgo Sienna and take the train straight to Modena. It saved us a lot of headache trying to maneuver a new city for just one day (plans sometimes look better on paper). I have to stress that fluidity and openness in travel is paramount. Traveling is always difficult, but also one of the most exhilarating and exciting experiences one can have. Yet, all of that fun can evaporate instantly depending on your travel partner. A positive attitude and openness to changes in the "plan" are essential to keeping the peace. Those that have travelled with a less than flexible partner know what I’m talking about. Everyone travels differently and it’s important to pair your travel buddy with your style of travel. Jay was the perfect travel companion and we had an absolute blast (but then again we have been traveling together since we were 9 and 5 years old). We will have the memories (and the jokes “insert bird noises”) from this trip for the rest of our lives. I love you Beebs and can’t wait for the next adventure!!!
"Oh look, Piazza Navona!"
So we bought a "selfie stick", but didn't really (know how to) use it properly.
Aww the Trevi Fountain was closed. But we really tried to learn how to take that selfie.
Look the Colosseum isn't closed! How pretty! (At least we're in the pic).
Oh but then we got Segways! And we needed equally ridiculous matching Tees.
So cool
Trés chic!
And the ultimate Segway Selfie at the Vatican, 5 points.
One of the key points to hospitality is a friendly greeting and a smile (added points if greeted by name). Every single time I pass the front desk at the Hotel Laguna at the Chia Laguna Resort I am greeted by name and a smile that beams genuine happiness and care. I feel warm and welcomed each and every time I enter the hotel.
Antonio making his signature 1988 cocktail
The other evening I was returning to my room early and mentioned to Antonio, the Sommelier and bartender that I wasn't feeling well. He replied, "Wait just a minute, I know exactly what you need." After a few moments he returned with fresh ginger, which he then muddled and added a little mint, lemon, and agave syrup with hot water in a pot and gave it to me to take to my room, the perfect remedy for a little cold. This anticipation of need and his desire to exceed my expectations, is what makes Giuseppe and the Hotel Laguna a 5-star resort.
The staff at the Chia Laguna are truly exceptional. Every person I've come in contact with has had a smile on their face, has displayed genuine empathy for my experience, and has been available to my every need. When my step-dad, Asaad was concerned about his laundry that was dropped off a few days earlier, he was met with this response, "Mr. Kelada, have no worries, we will take care of you." In fact, I heard that very same phrase a number of times during my stay, "Everything will be taken care of for you." The staff take interest in getting to know me, joke where appropriate, offer recommendations to sites and destinations, and have also blended seamlessly into the background unnoticed but ever present. The Hotel Laguna at the Chia Laguna Resort is a model for hotel hospitality.
Gian-Luca, General Manager Chia Laguna Resort
By the time we left this morning, my family and I truly felt like we were a part of something special, part of a family. We were sent off this morning by Antonello, GM of the Hotel Laguna and Gian-Luca, GM of the Chia Laguna Resort with such warm and loving care that our hearts with filled with love. We will most certainly return in the future. Thank you so much to the entire staff at Chia Laguna for making this one of the best trips of our lives.
